Relic or reformer? A Nigerian emir wants to take his ancient city into the modern era.

Muhammad Sanusi II is, by some measures, the most important traditional leader in West Africa. But in a country of pop stars, oil tycoons and cutthroat politicians, his reign has become a litmus test for the relevance of Nigeria's tribal and religious chiefs. Is the man on Kano's velvet throne an expensive anachronism?
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